This wine made from historic 65-year-old vines (once owned by the now legendary Jacky Truchot) easily live up to the expectations for this great Grand Cru. Upon first opening, its thoroughbred power quickly dominates the nose and the palate—a forceful display that could immediately give a short burst of remorse for opening this great vin de garde so early in its life. Alas, only twenty minutes in the glass (and, more so once the second is freshly poured) it begins to slowly unravel pure ethereal pleasures, forgiving the sin and relieving the regret after the first sip. Indeed this wine is beautiful now, but will surely show its best with more time in the cellar.
David’s use of 70% stems and a gentle, sparing extraction (5-7 times in total) during the fermentation, along with a 14-month elevage, leaves this high-pedigreed terroir-rich wine both strict and generous in the same sip. Savory wafts from this rocky Grand Cru of wet desert chaparral, chanterelles, a subtle mintiness and delicate, perfectly ripe high-toned red and violet fruits infuse into the nose. The finish, stern with firm, elegant tannins and vibrant acidity, carries on for minutes after each sip.
David’s newly-found deft touch and mastery of stem use has rendered a Grand Cru that falls nothing short of the grand expectations from a bottle of Clos de la Roche, one of Burgundy’s great, unique terroirs.